Photo by Jeffrey Green

Pierre Gagnaire doesn't just go where other chefs fear to tread; he's completely and fearlessly off the map, like a pre-Columbian explorer sailing off the edge of the world, holding onto his toque for dear life. His dining guests, as well, might be encouraged to hang on to their own head wear.

Twist by Pierre Gagnaire is the first North American restaurant by the man Ruth Reichl called "a technical wizard who enjoys walking a tightrope." Set on the 23rd floor of Mandarin Oriental, Twist is a marvel of modern design, with stunning décor courtesy of Adam Tihany, whose restaurant credits include Le Cirque and Per Se in New York and Aureole in Las Vegas. The space is limited to just 72 seats, keeping the room intimate and allowing the expert waitstaff and sommelier team to work their magic.

Go in expecting the high-end comforts that have defi ned French fine dining, and you will be turned upside down, gastronomically speaking. Among the taste-it-to- believe-it treats are the Yukon gold potato chip with sardine; fl ax-and-garlic stick and tuna chantilly; and gelée of Guinness and Jack Daniel's. And that's just the canapés, a selection of hors d'oeuvres that starts off each meal.

Those experiencing Twist for the first time would do well to skip the a la carte in favor of Pierre Gagnaire's Spirit tasting menu, a five-course thrill ride that showcases the chef's unconventional approaches to flavor, texture and presentation. Set among a seared slice of squab breast, rich foie gras and a smoky black olive gelée, a tender sea scallop nearly gets lost in the shuffle, then regains its lofty stature with each bite. The fillet of John Dory (aka St. Pierre) was an early favorite, served with the chef's crunchy sauce, a finely diced mix of pineapple, tomatoes, red bell pepper, on the side to allow each guest to play with the flavors.

The menu's tour de force is undoubtedly the Langoustine Five Ways, where Gagnaire via chef de cuisine Pascal Sanchez redefines the crafty crustacean as a mousseline, a gelée (with kombu seaweed) and a tartare (with a Campari-soaked ginger garnish), and more conventional approaches, grilled and topped with avocado, and seared and topped with Iberico ham. Having reached a climax, the menu maintains its momentum, and its eccentric approach, with a loin of venison paired with a quenelle made from a Grand Veneur sauce, a venison reduction mixed with Armagnac. In other words, deer ice cream.

As if Gagnaire needed to prove himself more, the five-part dessert course arrives, and like the venison, and the langoustine, and the scallop, it's unlike anything you've ever tasted. Just one example: cucumber marmalade, marinated in kirsch brandy with fresh green apples, served with mozzarella ice cream, pistachio chantilly, a green tea tuile and arugula salad.

You'll probably need more than one visit to truly appreciate all that Gagnaire has to off er. On Valentine's Day, Twist rolls out a three-course menu featuring the chef's inimitable creations. Romance and a foie gras terrine with dry fig purée, pumpkin cream chutney and kaki fruit sorbet? Consider us smitten.