Beyond the glitter of the world-famous Strip lies downtown Las Vegas. While it has undergone a renaissance of late with major casino remodels, it remains a bastion of Old Vegas when the Rat Pack ruled and martinis flowed freely. A hallmark of their reign, the steakhouse is an iconic reminder of the time when downtown was the center of the Vegas scene. A prime example of the classic Vegas steakhouse can be found at Vic & Anthony’s in the Golden Nugget.

Your journey begins as you enter into a space laden in hardwood and leather. With Ol’ Blue Eyes crooning in the background, begin your meal the way Frank would, with a caviar platter. Calvisius caviar is an Italian farm-raised roe presented with the typical accompaniments of mini blini, crème fraîche, diced egg yolk and whites, and onions. Not overwhelming with salinity, the spheres release the essence of the sea with each bite.

Continue your seafaring exploration with the jumbo lump crab cake. The patty delivers chunks of sweet crustacean atop a complex chive beurre blanc that accentuates the crab’s flavor without burying it. Or try venturing inland with the maple-glazed quail, which delivers crisp bites with sweet and heat as the maple glaze intertwines with a sriracha sauce with a hint of bite.

If you need a lighter dish in anticipation of your main course, explore the pear and Saga blue cheese salad. An interesting hybrid cheese, the Saga is particularly mild because it’s a unique blend of blue cheese and Brie, resulting in a smooth product with just a hint of sharpness. The creamy ranch vinaigrette provides a subtle backdrop to the sweet pears and peppery candied pecans in a mixture of textures and flavors.

But this is a steakhouse, so you must have some meat. All of Vic & Anthony’s steaks, such as the tender filet mignon, are three weeks wet-aged. But don’t fret if you prefer dry-aging instead, as dry-aged cuts are often included in the nightly specials. If you happen upon the 128-day dry-aged bone-in ribeye, seize the day and order it. Pair it with a Tristan rock lobster, which takes its name from the small island situated exactly halfway between Cape Town and Rio de Janeiro where it is generally found, and you’ll have yourself a memorable surf and turf.

For dessert, the croissant bread pudding with cinnamon is accompanied by a robust, decadent bourbon sauce and sweet caramel ice cream. And because the caramelized burnt crust is the best part, Vic & Anthony’s cleverly serves up their

vanilla bean crème brûlée from a saucer instead of a bowl, maximizing the crunchy crust-to-custard ratio.

Golden Nugget, 5-11 p.m. daily. 702.386.8399