A steak burger goes gliding by on a silver tray, and for a moment, it’s as if there’s no other food in the room. The foie gras parfait fades away, the puff pastry-wrapped escargots take a backseat. The wine is hardly noticeable anymore. It’s at this point you’re reminded of all the ways Michael Mina can tempt you.

Las Vegas has long been spoiled when it comes to Mina. He first decamped at the Bellagio to open Aqua (now Michael Mina) in 1998 and added Seablue, Nobhill Tavern, StripSteak and Pub 1842 over the years. Currently, four of the star chef’s restaurants are located here, including the new Bardot Brasserie at Aria.

Bardot takes up the space previously occupied by Mina’s American Fish, an acclaimed but (one imagines) underperforming part of the hotel’s second-floor dining nook. Where American Fish employed a mishmash of cooking techniques—you could order fish grilled, salt baked or sous vide, perhaps giving the diner a few too many options—Bardot sticks to just one (French) and explores its nuances with care and precision.

Mina had previously dabbled in French techniques at San Francisco’s RN 74, but he goes full-on at Bardot. Even the décor matches the new influence: tiled floors, brass rails, dark, polished woods. It’s a world away from American Fish’s modern appointments but right in line with what you’d expect from a classic French bistro.

Aside from a few twists here and there, the menu pretty much sticks to the genre’s greatest hits, albeit with some flavorful twists. Those pop-’em-if-you-got-’em escargots are a welcome alternative to the butter-soaked versions you find swimming six at a time in cast-iron dishes, and the creamy foie gras that lingers under a thin layer of ruby port gelée is supremely rich, heavenly and devilish all at once. A charcuterie board or cheese plate serves as a wonderful entr’acte or as a meal on its own, one best enjoyed seated at the bar with a glass of wine or a selection from what’s billed as the city’s largest chartreuse collection.

Entrées run the gamut from the classic croque madame, essentially breakfast in a sandwich with Paris ham and gooey Gruyère topped by a fried egg, to the heritage roast chicken, tender, juicy, etc., served over green beans with a small dish of mushroom and brioche pudding, some of the best stuffing this side of Thanksgiving. American Fish may be

but a memory, but seafood still rises to the occasion at Bardot, with sautéed skate wing, monkfish stew and the timeless mussels marinière all making appearances.

Mina also keeps date-night diners in mind, which is a good thing considering the romance quotient of French bistros. Decadent lobster thermidor, dry-aged côte de bœuf, grilled loup de mer and a double rack of lamb all call out for sharing, and there’s nothing wrong with taking a pair of forks to desserts like the stately lemon tart or overstuffed chocolate macaron.

There are a number of popular French brunches in town, and Bardot is off on the right foot by offering it on both Saturdays and Sundays, with many of the dinner items—including the mouthwatering steak burger, back to tempt all over again—available alongside French toast, smoked salmon and enticing croissant Benedicts. Better yet, there’s bottomless rosé for a very Strip-reasonable $20.

Aria, 5-10:30 p.m. daily, happy hour 5-7 p.m. daily, brunch 10 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Sat.-Sun. 702.590.8610