With the May opening of The Cromwell, celebrity chef and Food Network star Giada De Laurentiis found herself a home on the Strip with her eponymous restaurant, Giada. The property’s sole sit-down restaurant is also the TV personality’s first and only restaurant anywhere; it’s only fitting her premiere should occur under the neon lights of the Strip.

More than a restaurant, Giada serves as homage to De Laurentiis’ family—unsurprising given her involvement in all aspects of the venue design down to the selection of bar seats, wines and even specific ingredients. Vintage posters and specialty cocktails both refer to the movies of her grandfather—famous producer Dino De Laurentiis—while the menu itself highlights the favorites of her family, including Aunt Raffy (Raffaella De Laurentiis). These details bring a personal touch into an otherwise cosmopolitan, cutting-edge space.

Ascending the escalators to The Cromwell’s second floor, you’re beckoned by the wafting aromas of the wood-fired ovens. Upon entering the space the vast antipasto bar awaits, showcasing just a glimpse of the immense array available—the antipasto selections comprise nearly half of the menu, providing ample opportunity for a varied sampling.

Begin with the vitello tonnato, a light combination of veal loin and seared tuna with a caper aioli that doesn’t overwhelm the delicate proteins. Sharper are the baby sweet peppers brimming with goat cheese alongside an olive tapenade. Best of all are the bacon-wrapped dates; a wildly popular appetizer, the tapas standard is improved upon with the inclusion of spicy Esposito sausage and a Gorgonzola crema.

In a playful manner, pastas are spelled out phonetically the way De Laurentiis herself pronounces them. Spaghetti (spah-geh-tee) is not the typical marinara-doused presentation, but rather a lighter version with shrimp, lemon and basil. The irresistible plate is prominent with citrus notes whose ethereal quality is a fine foil to our high summer temps. Similarly, rigatoni (ree-gah-TOH-neh) is served with a habit-forming vegetable Bolognese awash with mushrooms. And if you’re lucky, the omnipresent chef may visit your table to help you with your diction.

Entrée-wise, pan-roasted sockeye salmon is presented with a crispy skin atop summer succotash and whole grain mustard, with the mustard particularly prominent. On the heartier side, the mustard-crusted rack of lamb served with a textured mixture of spinach, raisins and walnuts is a fine choice. Sides excel at Giada, with lemon potatoes and sweet corn and spicy sausage being particularly exemplary. The potatoes are smashed and fried with a crispy exterior opening unto a light and flaky interior, while sweet corn and spicy sausage combine into a medley of heat and sweet with every bite.

For dessert, tasty lemon ricotta cookies from De Laurentiis’ own recipe await. Or opt for the PB&J tiramisu—a combination that sounds a bit unorthodox but deftly delivers, not unlike the chef herself.

The Cromwell, 11 a.m.-3:30 p.m. daily, 5-10:30 p.m. Sun.-Thurs., 5-11 p.m. Fri.-Sat. 855.442.3271