It seems to be the No. 1 rule of Las Vegas—all things must change.

Constant reinvention is the only sure bet along the Strip, even if it means fewer destinations that hearken back to the Vegas of old, when lounge singers and showgirls dominated the entertainment landscape and all the real action was on the casino floor. Bally’s Steakhouse had always been an old-school joint, a holdover from a bygone era, even though it had only been around since the ’80s.

But, yes, all things must change, and it was this regal steakhouse’s turn. Impressively, the new version maintains its classiness and spotless service while updating with comfortable, contemporary décor and rock-solid cuisine. Allow me to introduce you to BLT Steak.

First, don’t worry about the Sterling Brunch, the weekend champagne-and-shellfish feast that has become a legendary Las Vegas dining experience. The brunch is back, it’s expanded to include both Saturdays and Sundays, and the BLT Steak restaurant space has grown to accommodate many more guests.

A swanky circular bar and lounge sets the tone for your return or first visit, ice-cold martini or rye-spiked cocktail at the ready. BLT Steak feels like a dark, intimate dining room, allowing you to craft your own experience even though there are 240 seats in the house. Whatever you’re looking for, it all starts with a basket of popovers, fluffy puffs of dough laden with savory Gruyère cheese, an addictive bite if there ever were one.

Classic steakhouse fare is the name of the game, with more than a few interesting twists and turns. Feel free to begin with a chilled shellfish platter or a sampling of charcuterie, but save room for beautiful salads and mouthwatering appetizers. Tuna tartare is a favorite starter, fresh and cool with creamy avocado and tangy soy-lime dressing. Do not miss BLT’s version of a spinach salad, baby greens with blue cheese, raw mushrooms, red onions and grand slabs of bacon, all covered in a smooth, warm bacon vinaigrette. The mustard dressing on the simple, sparkling Bibb lettuce salad is yet another winner.

All the beef at this chophouse is USDA Prime naturally raised Black Angus, aged to enhance texture and flavor before hitting a 1,700-degree broiler. American wagyu options include an unbeatable 12-ounce ribeye or a flavorful 10-ounce skirt steak, a unique bite.

And you can’t go wrong with a 28-day dry-aged porterhouse for two, which could probably feed an entire family once you throw in a couple of luscious sides such as truffle mashed potatoes and caramelized Brussels sprouts with bacon. For a more petite eater, consider a delicious 8-ounce hanger steak or an absolutely silky filet mignon.

Glimmers of the old school show up on BLT’s menu in the form of sautéed Dover sole in soy-caper brown butter, an herb-and-Parmesan-crusted veal chop or a double-cut portion Colorado lamb rack. Some throwback dishes never go out of style.

For dessert, choose between innovative (crepe soufflé with passion fruit sauce) or all-out decadent (peanut butter chocolate mousse with coffee ice cream). There are no bad choices at BLT Steak, a tasty upgrade on what came before.

Bally’s, 5:30-10:30 p.m. Sun.-Thurs., 5:30-11 p.m. Fri.-Sat. 702.381.2728. Sterling Brunch 9:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Sat.-Sun. 702.967.7258