As its name would indicate, Bellagio’s Sensi—tucked away past the Conservatory—is a showcase for the senses. From the exhibition kitchen open onto all sides to the dining room to the calming, feng shui-inspired design elements, it is an immersive experience that promises to exhilarate.
Even before perusing the menu, it becomes perfectly clear this will be no ordinary dining experience. Upon arriving at your table you’re greeted with a piping hot order of naan, an Indian flatbread similar to a pita, accompanied by a duo of dipping sauces: raita—a refreshingly light yogurt-based sauce—and an incredibly addictive tomato chutney. One could make a meal of this alone—regulars have been known to ask for extra naan and chutney to take with them after their meal—but you shouldn’t, because executive chef Royden Ellamar’s creations await.
The heavily sustainable ingredients-driven menu runs the gamut. When originally opened, Sensi’s concept presented a menu with offerings from four distinct “kitchens,” each outfitted with specialty equipment such as brick and tandoor ovens. Ellamar has morphed this concept into his own, making use of the equipment to build a geographically unrestricted selection. In lesser hands, the result could be muddled but he and his staff deftly meet the challenge.
Start with the prosciutto—essentially a slider with prosciutto, mozzarella and fig compote layered on grilled bread; it combines creaminess, saltiness and sweetness in a mélange of flavors and textures. Equally as impressive is the tongue and cheek. Rich braised veal cheeks and sublime smoked wagyu tongue yield what is indeed a heady dish.
Sensi Interior
In a surprisingly lighthearted approach in an otherwise semi-formal restaurant, the menu includes whimsical hashtags such #tanktotable and #betterthanbelly to accompany menu listings. The hashtag #tanktotable describes the live spotted prawn dish, which is scooped, as you could guess, directly from a tank in the kitchen. It’s as fresh a seafood experience as you’re bound to encounter outside of catching them yourself.
The roasted pork jowl delivers so much more. Labeled #betterthanbelly, it is a sisig-inspired revelation. Sisig, a Filipino specialty where pig parts are served sizzling hot on a metal plate, is uncommon outside of ethnic enclaves; here, Ellamar’s riff combines jowl with crispy pig ears, a fried egg, lime and chili atop white rice for a hearty dish with a myriad of textures. It’s refreshing to witness a kitchen demonstrate an enjoyable approach toward its craft and revel in the preparation. Entrée-wise, sea bass is presented atop a cioppino seafood risotto in a symphony of the sea, while the Colorado lamb chop is served with quince and an outstanding pomegranate sauce, cutting the meat’s richness.
For dessert, the Ice Bubble awaits. And what is an Ice Bubble? It’s an extravagant ice teardrop enveloping your choice of three house-made sorbets or gelati. The utterly decadent coconut sorbet is a clear favorite; other choices include pistachio, white chocolate espresso and even sour cream. It is a presentation fitting a restaurant the likes of Sensi.
Bellagio, 5:30-10:30 p.m. daily. 702.693.8865
